🔗 Share this article

An Expert Colorist

Hair Color Expert based in California who specialises in silver hair. His clients include celebrated actors and well-known figures.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

I swear by a microfibre towel, or even a soft cotton T-shirt to towel-dry your locks. Many are unaware how much stress a regular bath towel can do, particularly for grey or color-processed hair. This minor adjustment can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another inexpensive must-have is a wide-tooth comb, to use while conditioning. It protects the hair while smoothing out tangles and helps preserve the strength of the strands, notably following coloring.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A top-tier thermal appliance – ceramic or tourmaline, with precise heat settings. Silver and light-coloured hair can yellow or burn easily without the correct device.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

At-home lightening. Social media makes it look easy, but the actual fact is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients melt their hair, break it off or end up with uneven tones that are extremely difficult to fix. I would also avoid long-term smoothing services on color-treated or grey hair. Such treatments are often excessively strong for delicate locks and can cause long-term damage or discoloration.

Which typical blunder stands out?

People using the wrong products for their specific hair needs. Certain clients overapply violet-based cleansers until their silver or blond hair looks lifeless and muted. A few overdo on protein-rich treatments and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. Another significant problem is heat styling without protection. If you’re using flat irons, curling irons or blow dryers without a defensive spray or cream, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I also recommend scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to stimulate circulation and promote root strength. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps clear out buildup and allows products to perform better. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown notable improvements. They work internally to benefit externally by addressing hormonal imbalances, tension and lack of vital nutrients.

In cases requiring advanced options, blood-derived therapies – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be successful. Still, my advice is to consulting a skin or hair specialist initially. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

---

Anabel Kingsley

Scalp and Hair Scientist and head of a renowned clinic centers and lines targeting thinning.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

My trims are every couple of months, but will remove split ends personally every two weeks to keep my ends healthy, and have color touches every two months.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Hair-thickening particles are remarkably effective if you have thinning spots. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a variety of shades, making it virtually undetectable. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had a lot of hair fall – and also presently during some considerable hair loss after having a severe illness recently. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

What justifies a higher investment?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. When dealing with temporary hair loss, known as TE, buying an non-prescription item is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the best results. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

What should you always skip?

Using rosemary essential oil for thinning. It doesn’t work. This idea originated from a limited 2015 research that compared the effects of a mild minoxidil solution versus rosemary extract. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can affect thyroid test results.

What blunder stands out often?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the main goal of cleansing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the reverse is correct – particularly with flaky scalp, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. If oils are left on your scalp, they break down and become inflammatory.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a careful compromise. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it shouldn't harm your hair.

Which options help with shedding?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. Scientific support is substantial and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will clear up naturally. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the typical deficiencies involve iron, B12 and vitamin D – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus